After that its just hard to clean off but you have to use a thin layer of mustard so it can get oxygen to the steel and oxidize. VashHash wrote:I found it took about 30 mins for the patine to form. I appreciate all the info you guys provided. I'll leave the inside area of the blade alone like Creepo suggests. I have a consistant change in color on the blade except for the tang/pivot area. I would love to try creating the beautiful designs that Gunnut35 did but if I do that it will be on other knives first. Since my goal was to prevent corrosion with a little patina I think my goal has been satisfied. Then the pits formed because the mustard was on bare steel. Tuf-Glide advertises that it can't be washed off but I'm sure sharpening/stropping does remove it since that is removing steel. I say this because after I stropped the edge and bevel I assume there was no Tuf-Glide there. I am thinking the Tuf-Glide prevented patina from forming as fast as it would without it. When I started with the potato the entire blade was treated including the edge. Then I remembered that I always coat knife blades with Tuf-Glide. I was able to remove the darkness inside the pit that I assume would have turned to rust and further damage. There were 5 small pits on the bevel like Toomzz mentioned. As soon as the mustard was dry I washed it off. Some mustard did get on the bevel though. Then I used mustard again trying not to get any on the very edge. The edge was a little dull so I stropped it to get the edge sharp and bevel shiny again. Then I used mustard and that made a bigger difference than the others. The first thing I did was put the blade in a potato for a few hours with some but little effect. If your blade already has a patina in some areas, those areas will continue to darken further.Great info on forcing patina.Rinse it off after a few minutes and dry the knife. Do not let the vinegar dry on the knife as it can for rust spots.Yellow mustard, tomato sauce, mayonnaise can also be used as it is easier to “paint” it on when doing patterns.
Warming the vinegar will make the patina form faster.Have fun experimenting with different techniques and multiple layers, until you achieve your desired look. Fill a spray bottle with vinegar and spray lightly well above the blade so that the droplets rain down / settle on the flat of the blade.Allow the vinegar to run down and off the blade. Dip the blade, point down into your container filled with vinegar and remove.You’ll see small bubbles on the blade and it begins to darken. If you have a large enough container, you can fill the container with vinegar and submerge the blade (being careful not to wet the handle).
This creates an interesting mottled pattern on the blade.
Let the vinegar sit for a few minutes (about 5-10 minutes) then rinse off the vinegar and hand-dry thoroughly. With the paper towel, rub the vinegar evenly across the blade on each side.If there is already a patina on the blade you can use a baking soda/ water paste to remove it. Container the length of your knife/bladeĪs with etching damascus, it is essential to thoroughly clean your blade so that the vinegar makes contact with the whole surface.Carbon Steel / Semi-Stainless steel knife blade.For more creative patterns, mustard patinas give more options. You don’t need to “force” a patina as it will naturally occur over time, but should you wish to speed up the process or create your own patterns, here is how you can do it.Ī vinegar-based or instant coffee (fresh coffee has too much oil) forced patina is the preferred choice when a more even finish is desired.
A knife used primarily on meat has a thin almost translucent hue while a vegetable knife will develop bold patches and stripes. The patina will narrate your food story to everyone who sees the blade. Wipe the blade routinely while you cut acidic foods, particularly until the patina is fully formed. Until the patina is fully developed, the steel will cause minor discoloration on some vegetables and acidic foods, like onions or pineapple.
0 kommentar(er)
